T-minus 10 days and counting...

...until I leave my now-beloved Istanbul. It only seems like yesterday that I was stepping out of that taxi in front of the dorm, knowing barely a dozen words in Turkish, blinking away the near-tears of amazement and fear, and now, I am only a week and half from leaving. I'm far from fluent, but now I can carry on a simple conversation in Turkish - enough to express the basics of my feelings and desires, how to order food, and lots of fun Turkish curse words. I have walked, head-scarfed and socked feet, over the carpeted floors of Sultanahmet. I have swum in the cold-blue Mediterranean. I have sat and stared up at the Library of Celsus at Ephesus. I have strolled the halls of the Grand Bazaar and Spice Market. I have climbed the ancient fairy chimneys of Cappadocia, and listened to the midday call to prayer from the highest point of Uçhisar. I have explored the shadowy nooks and crannies of the ancient underground city of Derinkuyu. I have scrambled over the backs of ruins that are older than Christ. I have acquired the Turkish "no". I have had an amazing time here, and I know, I know, that one day I will return.

Now I sit in my dorm room, glancing up at the calendar occasionally with both a pained look and hope in my eyes. It's an odd place to be. I love it here and I want to stay, but at the same time, I miss my home in California, my friends and family, and most of my, my Russ. I can't have one without the other. In order to go back home, I have to leave my Turkish home. To say hello, I have to say good-bye. Yes, yes, I'm being melancholy and overly dramatic. Shut up. I know. But if you spent four months in one of the most magical cities in the world, with some of the best people that this world has to offer, some of the tastiest cuisine, some of the most spectacular views and histories, then you would understand. I am going back home, but I cannot take the simits, the hamams, the lokum, the call to prayer, the tangled crowded bazaars, or any of it home with me. I will take the language that I know, the recipes that I have learned, the nazarlık, the scarves, the photos and music, and of course, my memories.

I will miss you, Istanbul.

Recap!

Okay, I've been a bit scarce around here. So here's a quick recap (aka procrastinating another ten minutes or so before diving into hardcore studying for my Turkish final)

School: Busy busy busy! The workload here is heavily weighted towards the end of the semester here, so while this is technically "the last day of classes", I still have four more classes in the next two weeks. And three finals and three projects still to go. So cue the caffeine. I need to conduct original research for all three projects, do a ton of reading and writing, and then studying. My Turkish final is tomorrow morning (on a Saturday!!), and then I have two more finals in my grad classes, which is unheard of back at home at CSUS. Who does finals for a MA TESOL??

Istanbul: Spring has arrived and everything is in bloom, especially the tulips for which the city is famous. The weather is warmer for sure, but is still fickle. One day it's cool and grey, and the next bright blue skies with a bit of humidity. I hear summer here is rather nasty, but now it's nice. It reminds me of home actually (Virginia, that is), and while I can't wait to go back to California, I'm not looking forward to the heat. Plums are in season, and the fresh fruit here is so delicious. I am going to miss Turkish cuisine.

Work: I'm still debating applying to a summer teaching camp in July in Poland, as well as one at the UCDavis Extension back at home in Sacramento which would overlap with the first week of school in the fall semester. Both are tempting. Now I just have to convert my résumé into a proper CV. Any tricks or tips from those academic types out there??

Travel: I'm still not yet sure at this point when I will be back to the US. (See above re: camp in Poland) When I do get back to the US though, my roommate here has invited me to visit her in Boston, a city I've not yet seen, and then of course, I want to spend at least a couple weeks in Virginia to see my best friend and her new baby daughter as well as my other friends and family.

We've made the plans for Russ' trip here to Europe, and booked the tickets, and will be getting the hotels soon too. We both arrive in Amsterdam on June 12, spend a week in the eastern Netherlands and Germany, and then two days in Amsterdam itself, and then head over to Dublin on June 21 for a few days there before Russ heads home on June 24. I will be heading down to Cork for a few days after that to visit a friend, her husband and her handsome little boy. After that? It's still up in the air.

Spring Break: Awesome! I will write more details later, promise, but for now, let me just say that southeast Turkey is absolutely gorgeous. It reminded me at points like California meets Virginia meets Germany meets Italy. If you guys ever want to travel somewhere international, I highly recommend Turkey - no, seriously. The country is beautiful, it's cheap (check the Turkish Lira against the dollar, yo), the food is delicious, the people are so friendly and hospitable, and you really can see and do a lot - and *touch* things! I climbed through an ancient city, Termessos, which Alexander the Great couldn't conquer, I explored the grand amphitheatre - seats for you and 25,000 of your closest friends! - of Ephesus, I scrambled over the mountainside with the ancient Chimera, naturally-burning fires that predate Christ, I swam in the cold blue Mediterranean, I strolled the pebbly beach of Konyaaltı in Antalya, and drank tea with Kurdish carpet sellers in their shop while playing with genuine Van kittens.

Aka Turkey = f*cking amazing. Come here. You will not regret it. Photos will get posted to my Flickr sooner or later (the Flickr loader is way slow), but they are all up on my Facebook. (If you can't find me there, let me know).

Souvenirs: I'm getting lots! Shopping here is cheap and lots of fun. So! What do y'all want? (Please be in mind that bringing back rugs and nargile would be at best challenging, so please don't ask for one of those, and please remember that I am a poor grad student living on my savings right now too.) What can I bring you that's cool from Turkey? Well, Turkey is known for its textiles (scarves, peştemal aka towels for Turkish baths, clothes), ceramics, tea, spices, nazarlık (aka the "blue eye" charm which wards away the evil eye - google it), and lots of other stuff. The chocolate here is also very good, so I'll be bringing a bunch of that home. Just let me know. I do already have a few things picked out for people, so you might be surprised. You can always email me privately too at mercurialmagpie at gmail dot com.

Oooh.. I should go study now. Fret fret fret.

*love*

Adventures in Cappadocia

As promised!

Oh, what a very fun weekend we all had in Cappadocia! It all started on Thursday, March 12, when a group of about forty students piled onto a very nice charter bus that conveniently parked for us in front of the Superdorm. We left Istanbul around 10pm, everyone chattering gaily away, talking about the upcoming weekend, studying for our Turkish exam, reading, what-have-you. Aside from a couple stops, it took about 10 hours to get to Cappadocia. Folks slept for most of the trip, but it's not easy to sleep on a bus, let me tell you, especially you're sitting in the very back and the seat doesn't recline and you just can't get comfortable no matter what you do. We made a stop for breakfast in the early morning and then continued onto the hotel. There we dropped off our bags, but as our rooms weren't ready, we couldn't get showered or change clothes. Still it didn't seem to matter, because we were quickly on our way into Cappadocia itself.

For those of you who aren't familiar with the region, I guess you could liken it to the Grand Canyon of Turkey, and even that isn't quite right honestly. Between Istanbul and Cappadocia there isn't too much, just meandering fields and hills, with little towns randomly tucked here and there along the main highway. But when you get to Cappadocia, it's different. There are hills and valleys, deep canyons that roll away from you as you drive along their edges, and far below, there are these enchanting structures, towers, pinnacles, cliff sides, all cunningly carved out with doorways and windows, fantastically old and all inviting. The photos speak for themselves truly. "Fairy chimneys" aside, there are high plateaus with variegated lines and stripes of rich colors - clay reds, golden yellows, loamy browns, mottled sands - so beautiful and for me, rather reminiscent of the Painted Desert of the American Southwest. So much of what's historical in Cappadocia dates back thousands of years, including Hittite, early Christian, Persian, Roman, you name it. And the most beautiful thing about Cappadocia is that you can go right out into it and experience it for yourself. There are no red velvet cords, no signs saying "Do not touch", no stern guards frowning at you if you get too close. No, Cappadocia is a glorious hands-on experience.

The first place we went to visit was aptly-named Pigeon Valley or Uçhisar in Turkish, and as you may guess, yes, there are pigeons in said valley. We paused here for a little while, and we got out to look around and take photos. (We did this all throughout the trip. “Okay, we're going to stop, you have x amount of time and then we'll move on.”) The first thing I noticed was a nazarlık tree, which is just what it sounds like: a small tree hung with dozens of nazarlık charms. I'm now very tempted to buy a bunch and make my own nazarlık tree for my ev (home). There is something so simple and pretty about it. There was also a quaint souvenir shop and then the canyon itself. Of course, people immediately flocked (no pigeon pun intended) down into the canyon to explore. At the very bottom, we found some ruins, a dwelling carved out in the rock, with doorways, windows, little shelves, and colored paintings. Getting up into the house was a little difficult, but with a boost from other students, a bunch of us were able to climb inside and look around. Little did we know that it would only be the beginning of such adventures.

After too short a stop, we continued on to the real Uçhisar fortress. It's the highest point in Cappadocia, so after going inside and slowly making our way to the top, we were treated to a fantastic view of the whole valley. Up top there was a Turkish flag flying (you see a lot of Turkish flags flown here honestly – there is a lot of national pride here), and the wind wasn't too strong, so you could just stand and gaze for hours. I only wish that the weather had been better. It wasn't too cold but the sky was grey, so my photos aren't as good as they could have been. I can only wonder how much more beautiful it is in the warmer weather. On the top were carved holes that we had to guess were graves; they were the right size and dimensions. So, of course, that inspired morbid photos. :) (Hey, when you're the girlfriend of a mortician, you like these sorts of things.) But oh,
the view. The view really was amazing. I can't say enough. Even the photos can't say enough.

We made a stop for a buffet lunch at a large restaurant, and on the way out, paused at a souvenir shop where I bought a scarf and an embroidered satchel together for 20 TL. The scarf will be a gift but the satchel I'm keeping. It's a patchwork quilt-type bag, very colorful and quite practical. After lunch, we made another stop, longer this time, to go explore more of the fairy chimneys. A few other students got to experience a camel ride, and the rest of us dashed out like a class of elementary school kids to go climbing on an enormous ancient playground. Everywhere you looked, there was something new to see – a window to peek out of, a hole to crawl into, a doorway to duck through, somewhere always higher and better to climb up and see. We moved from structure to structure, and there was plenty of “Look up here! Look at me! Hey, cool, come here, look at this!” I swear, really, we were just a bunch of kids playing again. It was dusty and dirty, and we came out filthy and scratched-up and bruised, but we had an absolute ball. Lots of oneupmanship (is that really a word?) as we climbed higher and higher, and I'm actually quite surprised that no one got seriously hurt. It was just a delightful challenge – seeing a hole or platform that was just a little higher than we could easily reach, but with a lot of cooperation and helpful boosts, we could able to reach all kinds of nooks and crannies that others that might only be able to see but not climb up into. I have to say that it felt like being on one of those self-esteem exercises – a grand glorious playground that you have to work with your friends to investigate. Stress relief, I tell you.

After lots of climbing, sliding, peeking, and thankfully no falling, we headed back to the hotel to much-needed showers and naps before enjoying a buffet supper in the hotel dining room. We then went out to enjoy our “Turkish night”. This was deliciously touristy, but no one really seemed to mind. We went down into the spacious basement of this large restaurant, were served wine, beer, and rakı, and plates of sliced citrus fruit and nuts. The night was quite fun actually. A troupe of dancers first treated us to a performance of the whirling dervishes (not the real thing, but entertaining all the same), and then several traditional dances, including a courting/wedding dance, bellydancing, a display with a horse (!), an elaborate Turkish conga line of sorts which pulled everyone on the floor and right out of the restaurant, into the cold night, and around a large bonfire. Yes, it was a little surreal at times, and yes, quite touristy, but as I said, we had fun. They played a number of Turkish and American pop songs, and everyone got up and danced, so that was silly and fun. Hell, when you're drinking, it's all silly and fun. :)

The next morning we woke up to snow! It's known to snow in Cappadocia during the winter, and I knew that it was going to be cold (which it was), but the snow was still a pleasant surprise. After a hearty traditional Turkish breakfast (sliced meat, cheese, olives, tomatoes, cucumbers, yogurt, bread, muesli, tea, coffee and sweets), our first stop was Derinkuyu Yeraltı Şehri, one of many underground cities in Cappadocia. Like most everything else in the region, many of them are ancient, dating back thousands of years. People tended to live above land, but in times of attack, they could retreat to the underground cities and hole up for up to six months a time. The one we went had multiple level, with several ventilation shafts and wells, as well as a church, stable, graves, and many little rooms and holes riddling the place like Swiss cheese. As you descended into the city, you could see large (about 3 or 4 feet in diameter) round stone doors which could be rolled across the entrance of a hole to protect the people within. Seeing how narrow the passages were, it would have been very effective.

Now let me tell you – should you ever come to Cappadocia and want to see the underground city, be forewarned: it's more than a little claustrophobic. I didn't know going in how narrow and tight the passages and rooms would be at times. Somehow I was thinking more that it'd been large natural caverns that were converted for human usage, you know, large airy spacious rooms, but it was anything but. I'm a claustrophobe, and there were a number of places that I had to stop and take several deep breaths to keep panic attacks at bay, and no, no, I'm not kidding. The ceiling is quite low in places, and tunnels from one level to another are rather slender in many other places, so I just took a deep breath, and dashed through quickly. I kept reminding myself how unique the place is, and I might never come back, and look, how cool was this, and keep taking pictures, Kristina, you'll be fine. It was a little nerve-racking, more than a little actually. But I really enjoyed it, and I'm glad that I went. There's nothing that I've seen quite like it back in the States, and when you think of how incredibly old the place is, and in still such good condition (Turkey is prone to invaders, earthquakes and tourists, and all of them destructive), it was really staggering. I really wish the photos could tell you it all, but really, if you go to Cappadocia, visit Derinkuyu. You won't be disappointed. It's worth the 15 TL (though if you have a museum pass, it's free!).

After a quick lunch at a local shop, we headed off to a local pottery store. There are many of these in Cappadocia as it's where a lot of the beautiful Turkish pottery is made. After viewing a brief and humorous “this is how we throw pottery” demonstration, we browsed the large shop, and I picked out a couple of little bowls as souvenirs. Aside from tea, rugs, and scarves, Turkey is known for its ceramics, and there are such lovely designs and rich colors incorporated into the pieces. Different regions will have distinctive patterns as well, and many of them date back hundreds, if not thousands of years. So I will definitely be picking up a number of ceramic bowls before I head home. :)

Amid the snow and chill, we went climbing up to another ancient church built into a cliff. Several of the others climbed up higher, but I erred on the side of caution and explored the lower parts. There was plenty to see again – beautiful views, neglected nooks and crannies, forgotten holes and rooms, all of it waiting to be explored. I cannot tell you how many photos I took; too many. I poked around in buildings many times over older than my own country , ducked my head through doorways and windows carved carefully by hand and simple tools, and scrambled over structures that housed people for hundreds of years before being abandoned. And still they draw people. The locals, many of whom live traditional lives, eat and drink the same foods and drinks as their ancestors, farm the same traditional ways, and live their lives in much the same fashion as those who came before them. It may be modern day but they live alongside these ancient ruins as they have all along. It's amazing. We just have nothing like this back home. Amazing.

As it began to grow dark and even colder, we stopped by a local winery for a brief tour and wine tasting. Turkish wine! Quite tasty. We wrapped up with dinner back at the hotel, and while several other students went out to enjoy nargile, Lessa (who shared a room with me) and I retired early. Rock climbing is hard work, you know. :)

We checked out the next morning and braved the cold again after breakfast to slowly make our way out of Cappadocia. Our last stop in the area was Ihlara Valley, which is honeycombed with dwellings carved out of the rock but is especially famous for its many churches. It was a long slow walk to the bottom of the canyon which was wooded and had a rushing river running through it. The stairs down were icy, so I slipped a couple times, adding more bruises to ones that I had already from the weekend, but when I got to the bottom, it was well worth it. Again, the view was so breathtaking, and this time it was almost all looking up. Many of the churches were built underground, so again students ran and played and climbed in the holes. I went off on my own a little to peek in little corners, take yet more photos, and see what I could see. The whole thing was very peaceful and serene. Even though it was a touristy area, it didn't feel like it. As many people as there were in our group, there were plenty of places that you could go and not see anyone. I only wish that we had had more time to see it all. I think you could spend hours and hours there and still not see it all. Before too long, it was time to go, and we piled back on the bus for the long trip home. That in itself wasn't too eventful, but we did get in a lot of reading, studying (especially reviewing our Turkish vocabulary) and napping. All in all, it was a simply fantastic weekend, and given the chance, I definitely think I'd like to go back to Cappadocia. I highly recommend it.